With the doors having been adjusted for gaps, alignment and fit, it was time to trim them with the door cards.
Had a read through a few other blogs to get a rough idea of the best way to fit and went with the following process.
The door card is held in place by 7 clips and the door handle itself.
First thing to do is check the position of the door handle relative to the hole in the card that it has to pass through. The door handle can be moved left or right by loosening the cap heads that hold it in place. It is important that (a) the two sides are equally balanced for aesthetic reasons and more importantly (b) to ensure that the door will close properly without the door card fouling the latch mechanism.
Once i was happy with the positioning of the handles, I used a small punch to create a hole in the door card leather for the handle to bolt through and I fitted each of the 7 clips into the remaining holes. At this point I didn't pay too much attention to their orientation as I had decided they could be positioned properly when the card is offered up to the door.
Rear Number Plate Lamp
When I fitted the boot I decided to cut the section of loom that supplies the power to the number plate lamp as it was easier to feed it through the skin of the boot.
As I am nearing completion, this is one of the remaining wiring jobs to be sorted.
First off, I removed the light fitting and threaded the wires back through the bootlid and terminated them on the fitting. Then I made a up a new small section of loom and connected the two parts with bullet connectors and positioned this behind the boot carpet so a nice neat job was done.
As I am nearing completion, this is one of the remaining wiring jobs to be sorted.
First off, I removed the light fitting and threaded the wires back through the bootlid and terminated them on the fitting. Then I made a up a new small section of loom and connected the two parts with bullet connectors and positioned this behind the boot carpet so a nice neat job was done.
Number Plate Bar
The front number plate fits to a stainless steel bar which runs across the nose cone.
This is mounted to the inner wings by a couple of bolts either side. With hindsight this is something else I should have at least trial fitted with the body off which would have made access and marking much easier.
In order to get the horizontal centre line, I measured from the floor to the bottom of the nose and from the floor to the top of the nose. I then halved the distance between the two and added that to the dimension from the floor to the bottom of the nose to give the centreline.
This was then marked onto the inner wing and drilled through slightly oversize to allow for any misalignment.
With the car sitting on a level surface, I used a spirit level to get the bar lined up then tightened everything up. Just need a piece of MDF now to mount the plate on :)
This is mounted to the inner wings by a couple of bolts either side. With hindsight this is something else I should have at least trial fitted with the body off which would have made access and marking much easier.
In order to get the horizontal centre line, I measured from the floor to the bottom of the nose and from the floor to the top of the nose. I then halved the distance between the two and added that to the dimension from the floor to the bottom of the nose to give the centreline.
This was then marked onto the inner wing and drilled through slightly oversize to allow for any misalignment.
With the car sitting on a level surface, I used a spirit level to get the bar lined up then tightened everything up. Just need a piece of MDF now to mount the plate on :)
Courtesy Lights
The GD loom comes with feeds to both doors for courtesy lights. GD tend not to fit these but I think its a nice touch and useful when using the car at night, so have decided to fit them. At a later date I will also take a feed to a separate override switch.
I positioned the door switches centrally between the two escutcheons and trimmed the length of the plunger to suit. The switches were then simply connected to the GD loom.
I have then broken into the loom circuit to take feeds to the lights which I have mounted in the dash under trays.
The dash is back out again at the moment so I will have to wait until its back in and connected before I can test everything.
I positioned the door switches centrally between the two escutcheons and trimmed the length of the plunger to suit. The switches were then simply connected to the GD loom.
I have then broken into the loom circuit to take feeds to the lights which I have mounted in the dash under trays.
The dash is back out again at the moment so I will have to wait until its back in and connected before I can test everything.
Wiper Motor
With the dash connected back up, I was able to test the wiper motor function. The good news was that it worked. The bad news was that the motor parks the wipers the wrong way and it made a hell of a noise.
Reversing the park isn't a major issue, its more of a pain as the whole thing has to come back out.
With the motor on the bench, its a case of removing the retaining cir clip, popping the motor over onto its back and undoing the securing screws. This gives access to the motor mechanism. There is a little white plastic bit that has to be taken out and put in the spare hole 180 deg opposite where it is currently fixed. Swap it over, grease it all up and refit in reverse order.
Before fitting back into the car, I greased the whole length of the spiral gear wire to try and eliminate and noise and i made sure the bends in the bundy pipe are as smooth as possible.
I also double checked the wiring of the wiper stalk and noticed there were a couple of wires incorrectly connected. This probably explains why when I did the original test that the slow speed didn't work. There is also some confusion over the wire for the horn and the washer which I need to clarify with GD.
Reversing the park isn't a major issue, its more of a pain as the whole thing has to come back out.
With the motor on the bench, its a case of removing the retaining cir clip, popping the motor over onto its back and undoing the securing screws. This gives access to the motor mechanism. There is a little white plastic bit that has to be taken out and put in the spare hole 180 deg opposite where it is currently fixed. Swap it over, grease it all up and refit in reverse order.
 |
| Note White Plastic 'Stop' in opposite position |
 |
| Greased and ready to go |
Before fitting back into the car, I greased the whole length of the spiral gear wire to try and eliminate and noise and i made sure the bends in the bundy pipe are as smooth as possible.
I also double checked the wiring of the wiper stalk and noticed there were a couple of wires incorrectly connected. This probably explains why when I did the original test that the slow speed didn't work. There is also some confusion over the wire for the horn and the washer which I need to clarify with GD.
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