Door Hanging

Friday 6th January

Well here goes with first update on 2012 build activities...

Spent sometime on New Years Eve thinking about how to tackle door hanging and building the hinge assemblies on the workbench and on Thursday night spent a couple of hours trying to put the theory into practice - although with limited success it has to be said!!!

First of all the doors arrived from GD without any markings showing hole positions etc so we decided to do a mock up of the latch and catch assembly and make sure everything worked before cutting holes in the door.

Hinges fixed to car body

Striker post

Hinge, catch and latch fixed in place

View from inside

Ignore the VW Convertible in the background for now(it's a friend's car that needs rebuilding)

So, after a dummy run we marked up the doors with the hole positions and started drilling and cutting...

Hinge bracket holes drilled

And after much messing and faffing we got the door hung - still need to do some work on the latch/catch and alignment but it represents a whole evening's work and progress...

Test fitted

Now... more about that Beetle

Having got very annoyed with door hanging, we decided to do some door UN-hanging, with this being the result - much easier to take them off than to put them on!!!!

Progress as at end 2011

Well here are a few photographs to show the progress made in my first two months of building...

Lights and Headlamps fitted - beginning to look like a Cobra now!

Nice rear end - fog and reverse lights still to be fitted

Smooth bodyshell - no more nasty flashlines

Just 3 small images but in my mind, Im delighted with my progress so far...

Tools & Equipment Required / Used

As noted in other blogs, I seem to be making good progress without the use of many tools so far but thought it would be good practice, and of benefit to future builders, to list the tools I've actually used and in the orde rthey were required.

Again this is based on my build programme of working on the body first, then ordering the rolling chassis as is the norm with a Mk IV GDEURO build.

I will endeavour to update this section as the build progresses.

1. Something to Stand the Body

Useful for keeping it off the floor and at a nice hight for working on. Im lucky that I have a big three vehicle workshop so I don't need a moveable stand. What I built was a sturdy timber frame

Note cross braces for rigidity

2. Wet n Dry Paper

This is needed for rubbing down the flashlines. I started with 400 grit and worked progressively to 800, 1200 and 2000. The plan is to use 2500 prior to final polish but I wonder if this is really necessary?

Also essential is a good quality rubber sanding block. I also bought a 'tear drop' sanding block to use on the curved sections as hand pressure isn't sufficient to smooth the flashlines completely

3. Hole Saws

Useful for cutting holes for stop/tail lamps, indicators and side repeaters.

I used the GD recommended 30mm for the stop/tail and indicators but I would recommend using a 32mm if I were to start over.

25mm was used for side repeaters (which are still to be fitted)

Im about to order a 64mm for the sterring column and a 45mm (for something else - but cant recall what at this point!)

4. Rivnut Tool & Rivnuts

Although the GD build notes say its ok to use self tapper in a number of places, reading other blogs I am happier to use rivnuts of varying sizes and have just ordered a  Rivnut Tool and selection of Rivnuts ranging form M4 through to M8.

These will be used to secure a number of components in place such as Heater Unit, Extended Footwell Cover, Wheel Arch Access Covers, etc - more on this later

5. Socket Set

I have just started to fit the doors. A socket set will be most useful in fixing the bolts in place behind the 'A' pillar where it would be hard to reach with a spanner.

6. Dremel

This is essential and is used for cutting holes of varying shapes and sizes as well as being useful for sanding and fettling.

If you buy one go for one with the Circle Cutter attachment no 678-01 - its worth the price to save the aggro cutting the headlamp apertures alone

7. A 90 deg Adaptor for the Drill 

To allow it to get into those hard to access areas

Hole Cutting

Christmas Holidays 2011

Having drilled holes in the rear of the bodyshell for stop/tail light and indicators, I felt I had lost my virginity somewhat and decided that I would take advantage of the extra time available over the Christmas holidays to cut some more serious holes. Namely, headlamp apertures, oil cooler air intake and brake vents.

Now drilling uniform holes is one thing but cutting great big holes in the front of the body is another thing all together and quite scary. I'd like to thank Ryan for his detailed and informative build blog - not sure how I would be able to build this thing without the many blogs out there - on tips for cutting out the oil cooler and brake vent holes.


Headlamps


I've read much about the procedure for cutting headlamp apertures and the generally accepted method id to mark an inner circle 3mm less than the diameter marked by GD then use a drill and join up the holes. However, having invested in my Dremel (complete with accessories package) I did some googling and YouTubeing (link to circle cutter demo video) and found that my circle cutting attachment should be perfectly suited to the job.

With this in mind I set about cutting the 78mm dia hole as per the GD build notes

Using Dremel 678 Circle Cutter

As cut, prior to fettling

At this point I feel I must have a moan about the GD build notes and their recommended hole sizes. The 28mm dia hole for the indicators is too small (the earth tag wont pass through the hole) which was annoying as I had specifically bought a non-standard size hole saw for this task and then had to elongate the hole with the Dremel. Now the headlamp bowls wont fit the 78mm hole and these need enlarging!! Grrhh.



Oil Cooler

Following Ryan's advice, I masked up the area to be cut off and drew a pencil line to give me a clear guide. I then used the Dremel with a cutting disc to slice off the bottom of the 'bowl'

Masked up ready to mark cut line

Cutting bottom off 'bowl' using Dremel

After cutting out the hole for the oil cooler air intake, I repeated the procedure for the brake vents. Once cut I used a file to smooth the edges prior to rubbing down when I do the rest of the internal body edges.

Year End Progress Report

Sunday 1st January 2012

As the Christmas holidays draw to a close, I thought I would write my first blog of 2012 with a look back at what I have achieved so far...

Significant Achievements

1. Decision made to build GD427 Mk4
2. Order placed for white bodyshell with twin black stripes and various other components required for first stage of build
3. Collected bodyshell and components 3rd November 2011 - this is the official day one for my build counter
4. Removed all exterior (and some internal) flashlines ready for polishing
5. Majority of body holes cut - headlamps; indicators; stop/tail lights; oil cooler air intake; brake vents; fuse box; extended footwell
6. All lighting (except for rear fog and reverse light) test fitted
7. Made a start on fitting the doors